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    • 专利摘要:
    The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) one or more alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, b) one or more fatty acid esters, said ester comprising at least The invention also relates to a process for mattifying the skin and / or reducing its gloss. The subject of the invention is also the use of said fatty acid ester as an agent for mattifying keratin materials such as the skin.
    公开号:FR3030231A1
    申请号:FR1463283
    申请日:2014-12-23
    公开日:2016-06-24
    发明作者:Isabelle Terrisse；Irene Elguidj
    申请人:LOreal SA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] The present invention relates to the field of skincare and / or makeup of keratinous substances, and in particular of the skin. The present invention relates to the use, in particular, of a fatty acid ester having at least 24 carbon atoms as an agent for mattifying keratin materials, in particular oily and / or shiny skin. It also relates to a composition in particular cosmetic and / or dermatological comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium at least one fatty alcohol comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, at least one fatty acid ester having at least 24 carbon atoms and at least one thickening agent. The invention also relates to a method of care and / or makeup of the skin comprising the topical application of the composition on keratin materials such as the skin. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for mattifying the skin and / or reducing its gloss, comprising the topical application to said skin of the aforementioned composition. The shine of the skin, generally related to a high secretion of sebum, is a problem which affects mainly adolescents, but which can also manifest itself in adulthood under the effect in particular of an increase in androgens or factors. such as pollution. The shine of the skin may also be related to sweat resulting from physical activity or weather conditions (heat, humidity). The shine of the skin may be due to the combination of the two phenomena (sebum and sweat). Obtaining a matte effect of the skin is much sought after by users with combination or oily skin, as well as for cosmetic compositions intended to be used in hot and humid climates. Reflections caused by an excess of sebum and / or sweat on the surface of the skin are indeed generally regarded as unsightly. A shiny skin also generally results in a poorer hold of the makeup, which thus tends to degrade during the day.
    [0002] In addition to the use of so-called "sebo-regulating" agents, that is to say capable of helping to regulate the activity of the sebaceous glands by an action that can be described as biological, an effective way of rapidly reducing the Unsightly areas of shine involves using "soft-focus" bloomer fillers.
    [0003] The use of sebum and sweat absorbing fillers is also a way of prolonging dullness over time. It is known to use perlite (FR 2881643), pyrogenic fillers (EP 1 637 186) or fibers as matting agents. However, these fillers can cause discomfort including lint on the skin and / or perception of skin not clean. However, the use of these fillers is generally accompanied by a dry touch, and a lack of rhédibitoire comfort for the user It remains the need to have mattifying cosmetic compositions having good cosmetic properties, and particular providing a matifying effect effective (strong), immediate, and / or durable over time. However, the inventors have shown that the fatty acid esters having at least 16 carbon atoms have good properties for mattifying oily and / or shiny skin: it has indeed been found that the luster of the skin is attenuated after treatment. application to the oily and / or glossy skin of fatty acid ester according to the invention. The oily and / or shiny skin thus treated regains a more matte appearance. The Applicant has discovered that this need is more particularly satisfied by combining one or more alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, one or more fatty acid esters, said ester comprising at least 24 carbon atoms and one or more thickeners. The composition thus obtained makes it possible to improve the dullness of the skin remanently. The skin thus remains permanently matified. The subject of the present invention is therefore a composition, in particular a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) one or more alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, b) one or more fatty acid esters comprising at least 20 12 carbon atoms, said ester comprising at least 24 carbon atoms c) one or more thickeners. The present invention relates to the particularly cosmetic use of one or more acid esters comprising at least 16 carbon atoms, said ester comprising at least 30 carbon atoms as a mattifying agent for keratin materials, in particular of the skin and in particular in a composition adapted to a topical application.
    [0004] The constituents of the composition according to the invention will now be described in more detail. Fatty Alcohols Comprising at Least 20 Carbon atoms The composition of the invention comprises one or more fatty alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols according to the invention comprise at least one aliphatic chain comprising at least 20 carbon atoms. Said aliphatic chain may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. It preferably comprises from 20 to 100 carbon atoms, particularly from 20 to 50 carbon atoms, and even more particularly from 20 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, said fatty alcohol (s) may be hydroxylated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. These fatty alcohols are not alkoxylated and in particular are not (poly) oxyethylenated and / or (poly) oxypropylenated.
    [0005] Preferably, the fatty alcohol has the structure Ra-OH, in which Ra denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated radical containing from 20 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 20 to 30 carbon atoms; Ra may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and especially with one or two hydroxyl groups.
    [0006] The fatty alcohol can be a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that in a commercial product can coexist several species of fatty alcohols in the form of a mixture. Advantageously, the fatty alcohol is solid or pasty at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure (105 Pa). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solid or pasty fatty alcohol at 25 ° C." is intended to mean a fatty alcohol having a viscosity measured with a rheometer (Rheometer R600, for example) with a shear rate of 1s-1 greater than or equal to 1 Pa.s. Preferably, the fatty alcohols according to the invention are saturated and linear fatty alcohols.
    [0007] Preferably, these are primary fatty alcohols which have a linear and saturated chain. Examples that may be mentioned include behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignocyclic alcohol, ceryl alcohol, myricylic alcohol and montanyl alcohol. More particularly, behenyl alcohol and / or arachidyl alcohol will be used.
    [0008] Mixtures of these fatty alcohols with fatty alcohols containing less than 20 carbon atoms can also be used.
    [0009] As a particularly preferred mixture of fatty alcohols in the composition according to the invention, it is possible to use, for example, the mixture of fatty alcohols consisting of 76% by weight of behenyl alcohol, 17% by weight of arachidyl alcohol, 1.5% by weight of lignoceryl alcohol, 5% by weight of stearyl alcohol and 0.5% by weight of cetyl alcohol. This mixture is sold under the name Nafol® 1822 C by CONDEA. As other examples, mention may also be made of the mixture sold under the name Nafol® 2298 by CONDEA, which comprises 98% by weight of behenyl alcohol; the mixture sold under the name Nafol® 20-22 by CONDEA, which comprises 30% by weight of behenyl alcohol, 58% by weight of arachidyl alcohol and 6% by weight of lignoceryl alcohol; or the mixture sold under the name Nafol® 20+ by Condea, which comprises 50% by weight of arachidyl alcohol, 29% by weight of behenyl alcohol, 14% by weight of lignoceryl alcohol and 6% by weight of stearyl alcohol. The amount of fatty alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms in the composition according to the invention varies especially from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10%, better still from 1 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty acid esters having at least 24 carbon atoms The acid esters comprising at least 24 carbon atoms are in particular esters comprising two or three C12-C30 fatty chains. The total number of carbon atoms of the ester ranges from 30 to 100, preferably from 40 to 80. They are preferably solid at a temperature of less than or equal to about 30 ° C. The fatty acid esters according to the invention are in particular A) those corresponding to the following formula (I): R-COO-R '(I) in which: R and R', which may be identical or different, denote a hydrocarbon-based group The radicals R and R 'may be hydroxylated, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, having from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms. R and R 'are chosen such that the compound of formula (I) is solid at a temperature of less than or equal to about 30 ° C. Preferably, R and R 'are the same and denote a C14-C24 alkyl group such as behenyl, stearyl, arachydyl.
    [0010] Preferred compounds of formula (I) are, for example, behenyl behenate, stearyl stearate, arachidyl arachidate and more particularly behenyl behenate.
    [0011] B) the di or triesters of glycerol and of C 12 -C 30 fatty acids It is possible in particular to use glyceryl tristearate, glyceryl distearate, glycerin trihydroxystearate, glyceryl trisbehenate, glyceryl dibehenate, esters of fatty acids according to the invention are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight. Thickeners As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more thickeners. By thickener is meant a compound which is introduced at 1% by weight in pure water and at pH 7 and at 25 ° C. has a viscosity greater than 11000 Pa.s. The viscosity is measured in Pa.s for a shear value of 0.001 s -1 using a HAAKE Mars rheometer of 35 mm diameter titanium-sanded cone-plane geometry at an angle of 2 °. The measurements are made in constraint imposed on equilibrium. The thickeners according to the invention can be of natural or synthetic, mineral or organic origin. The thickeners may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic, associative or non-associative polymers. It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers capable of associating reversibly with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone. By "hydrophobic group" is meant a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical or polymer comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It can also denote a hydrocarbon polymer such as for example polybutadiene.
    [0012] Non-associative thickening polymers that may be mentioned include non-associative thickening polymers with sugar units. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" is intended to mean a unit derived from a carbohydrate of formula C (H 2 O) 1 or (CH 2 O) which may be optionally modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or dehydration.
    [0013] The sugar units that can be used in the composition of the thickening polymers of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anthrogaractose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose. Mention may in particular be made, as thickening polymers of the invention, of the native gums such as: a) exudates from trees or shrubs b) gums derived from algae including: - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose); Alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid) and their salts - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and of anhydrogalactose sulfate); c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, of which: - guar gum (mannose and galactose polymer); carob gum (mannose and galactose polymer); fenugreek gum (mannose and galactose polymer); - tamarind gum (galactose, xylose and glucose polymer); - konjac gum (glucose polymer and mannose); D) microbial gums; e) plant extracts including: - cellulose (glucose polymer); starch (glucose polymer) and inulin. These polymers can be modified physically or chemically. As a physical treatment, mention may in particular be made of temperature. By way of chemical treatments, mention may be made of esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to lead to polymers which can in particular be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric. Preferably these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.
    [0014] The nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with (C 1 -C 6) poly (hydroxyl) alkoxy groups. Among the (poly) hydroxy (C 1 -C 6) alkyl groups, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups may be mentioned by way of example. These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and may for example be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as, for example, propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum. modified with hydroxypropyl groups. The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably ranges from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum. Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are, for example, sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP120 by Rhodia Chimie. The starch molecules used in the present invention may have as botanical origin cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are for example selected from starches of maize, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea. The starches can be modified chemically or physically: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidification, heat treatments. Preferred diamidon phosphates or diamidon phosphate-rich compounds such as PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (hydroxypropylated gelatinized manioc diamidon phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized manioc diamidon phosphate) are preferred. or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetyl diamidon phosphate) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA by NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized cornstarch). According to the invention, it is also possible to use amphoteric starches, these amphoteric starches comprise one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type. Starch molecules can be derived from all plant sources of starch such as, in particular, maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The starch is preferably from the potato. The non-associative thickening polymers of the invention may be cellulosic polymers having no C10-C30 fatty chain in their structure. By "cellulosic" polymer is meant according to the invention any polysaccharide compound having in its structure chains of glucose residues united by 13-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Thus, the cellulosic polymers of the invention may be selected from unsubstituted celluloses including microcrystalline form and cellulose ethers. Among these cellulosic polymers, there are the cellulose ethers, the cellulose esters and the cellulose ether esters. Among the cellulose esters, there are the inorganic esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulphates or phosphates, etc.), the organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or acetatetrimellitates). ) and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulphates and cellulose acetate propionates. Among the cellulose ether esters, mention may be made of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulphates. Among the non-associative fatty-chain nonionic cellulose ethers C10-C30 i.e. "non-associative", mention may be made of (C 1 -C 4) alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly) hydroxy (C 1 -C 4) alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR proposed by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed (poly) hydroxy (CiC4) alkyl- (C1-C4) alkylcellulose celluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethyl methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl ethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ). AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl methylcelluloses. Among the non-fatty chain anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly) carboxy (Ci-C 4) alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts. Among the non-fatty chain cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as (poly) hydroxy (Ci-C4) alkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyldiallylammonium. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat® L 200" and "Celquat® H 100" by the company National Starch. Among the non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units which may be used, mention may be made of homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic crosslinked, crosslinked homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers. homopolymers of ammonium acrylate or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide alone or in mixtures.
    [0015] A first family of suitable non-associative thickening polymers is represented by crosslinked, optionally salified, acrylic acid homopolymers. Among the homopolymers of this type, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allylic alcohol ether of the sugar series, such as, for example, the products sold under the names CARBOPOLS 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company NOVEON or the products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by the company 3 VSA. The non-associative thickening polymers may also be crosslinked (meth) acrylic acid copolymers such as the polymer sold under the name AQUA SF1 by the company NOVEON. The non-associative thickening polymers may be chosen from cross-linked homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid and their salts. Among the partially or completely neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propane sulfonic acid crosslinked polymers, mention may in particular be made of SIMULGEN 800 from SEPPIC. The composition may also comprise, as non-associative thickening polymers, homopolymers of ammonium acrylate or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide. As examples of homopolymers of ammonium acrylate, there may be mentioned the product sold under the name MICROSAP PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst. Among the copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide, mention may be made of the product sold under the name BOZEPOL C NEW or the PAS 5193 product sold by HOECHST. In particular, it will be possible to refer to the documents FR 2 416 723, US Pat. No. 2798053 and US Pat. No. 2,922,692 with respect to the description and the preparation of such compounds.
    [0016] Among the thickening polymers, mention may also be made of associative polymers well known to those skilled in the art and in particular of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature. Among the associative polymers of the anionic type, mention may be made of: (a) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit consists of an anionic monomer; unsaturated ethylenic, more particularly by a vinyl carboxylic acid and more particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof. Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of (meth) acrylates, are particularly preferred according to the invention. from lower alkyls, from 2 to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether, and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate; allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide. Among these, the crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate, of polyethylene glycol (10 OE) and of stearyl alcohol (Steareth 10) are particularly preferred, in particular those sold by BASF under the names SALCARE. SC80® and SALCARE SC90® which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40/50/10). (b) those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type. Alkyl (C 10 -C 30) esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids useful in the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate. Anionic polymers of this type are, for example, described and prepared according to US Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949. Among this type of anionic associative polymers, those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those previously described.
    [0017] Among said polymers above, the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1®, Pemulen TR2® and Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR1 0, are particularly preferred according to the present invention. product sold by SEPPIC under the name COATEX SX®. It is also possible to mention the acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP. (c) terpolymers of maleic anhydride / cc-C30-C38 olefin / alkyl maleate such as the product (maleic anhydride copolymer / C30-C38 olefin / isopropyl maleate) sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608® by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES. (d) acrylic terpolymers comprising: i) about 20% to 70% by weight of a 12,13-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid [A], ii) about 20 to 80% by weight of an unsaturated monomer 12,13-monoethylenic non-surfactant other than [A], iii) about 0.5 to 60% by weight of a nonionic mono-urethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate, such as those described in the patent application EP-A-0173109 and more particularly that described in Example 3, namely, a terpolymer methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate 25; ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (400E) in a 25% aqueous dispersion. (e) copolymers comprising, among their monomers, an unsaturated carboxylic acid (1,13-monoethylenic acid and an unsaturated carboxylic acid ester (1,13-monoethylenic) and an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol) .Preferentially, these compounds also comprise monomer 30 is an unsaturated carboxylic acid ester (1,13-monoethylenic and C1-C4 alcohol.) By way of example of this type of compound, mention may be made of ACULYN 22® and ACULYN 88® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which are methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / stearyl methacrylate oxyalkylenated terpolymers, or alternatively ACULYN 28® sold by the company ROHM and HAAS which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate terpolymer and / or oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate, also the products sold by Lubrizol under the tradenames CARBOPOL Ultrez 20 and CARBOPOL Ultrez 21 which are acrylic polymers (acrylates / C10-30 alkyl ac rylate crosspolymer) and NOVETHIX L-10 which is a copolymer acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate. (t) Associative polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized and comprising at least one hydrophobic part. These polymers may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably crosslinked. The ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing a sulfonic group are chosen in particular from vinylsulphonic acid, styrenesulphonic acid, (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids and N- (C 1 -C 22) alkyl (meth) acrylamido acids. (C1-C22) alkylsulphonic acids such as undecylacrylamido-methanesulfonic acid and their partially or completely neutralized forms. More preferably, (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulfonic acids such as, for example, acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-acid trimethylpentanesulphonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecylsulphonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid and their partially or completely neutralized forms.
    [0018] More particularly, use 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or completely neutralized forms. The polymers of this family may especially be chosen from AMPS random amphiphilic polymers modified by reaction with a n-monoalkylamine or a C6-C22 di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in the patent application WO 00 / 31154 (forming part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomers chosen, for example, from (meth) acrylic acids, their 1-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamines. such as vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds. The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one hydrophobic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation. These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not containing a fatty chain, such as (meth) acrylic acids, their 1-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (Meth) acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures thereof.
    [0019] These copolymers are described in particular in the patent application EP-A750899, patent US 5089578 and in the following Yotaro Morishima publications: "Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures" - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336. O "Miscellany formation of random copolymers of sodium 2- (acrylamido) -2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, Vol. 33, No. 10 (2000), 3694-3704 "; o 'Solution properties of miscelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: knows effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir' Vol. 16, No. 12, (2000) 5324-5332; o Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2- (acrylamido) -2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym.
    [0020] Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40 (2), (1999), 220-221. Among these polymers, mention may be made of: - crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C 8 -C 16) alkyl (meth) units acrylamides or (C8-C16) alkyl (meth) acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in EPA750 899; terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90% by mole of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10% by mole of AMPS units and from 5 to 80% by mole of n- (C 6 -C 18) alkylacrylam ide units, such as those described in US Pat. No. 5,098,578. All these anionic associative polymers may be salified. Copolymers of completely neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate as well as copolymers of uncrosslinked and crosslinked AMPS and n30 dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above, may also be mentioned. Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of: (I) cationic associative polyurethanes; The compound sold by NOVEON under the name AQUA CC, which corresponds to the name INCI POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER. POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER is the product of the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising: a di (C 1 -C 4) alkylamino (C 1 -C 6) alkyl methacrylate, one or more alkyl esters of C1-C30 and (meth) acrylic acid, polyethylene oxide C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide unit), polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol allyl ether 30/5, O hydroxy (C2-C6) alkyl methacrylate, and ethylene glycol dimethacrylate. - (///) quaternized (poly) hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups containing at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals borne by the above-quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of C8-C30 fatty chain quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses, such as QUATRISOFT LM 200®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-A®, QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-18-B® ( C12 alkyl) and QUATRISOFT LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) sold by AQUALON, the products CRODACEL QM®, CRODACEL QL® (C12 alkyl) and CRODACEL QS® (C18 alkyl) sold by the company. CRODA company and the SOFTCAT SL 100® product sold by AQUALON. the cationic polyvinyl lactam polymers. Such polymers are for example described in the patent application WO00 / 68282. Examples of cationic poly (vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention are terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate, vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers and vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylam terpolymers. ide / tosylate or lauryldimethylmethacrylam ido-propylammonium chloride.
    [0021] The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those comprising at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mole% of monomer having a fatty chain, and preferably 1.5 to 15 mole% and more particularly 1.5 to 6 mole%, based on the number, are preferred. total moles of monomers. Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are for example described and prepared in the patent application WO 9844012. Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, the terpolymers acrylic acid / (meth) acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride / methacrylate chloride are preferred. of stearyl.
    [0022] The nonionic associative polymers that may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from: (a) copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and of hydrophobic fatty-chain monomers, examples of which may be mentioned: ANTARON V216® products or GANEX V216® (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company ISP products ANTARON V220® or GANEX V220® (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P. (b) copolymers of methacrylates or of C1-C6 alkyl acrylates and of 10 amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208®. (c) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer. (d) polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain, both hydrophilic sequences of mostly polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences. (e) polymers having an aminoplast ether skeleton having at least one fatty chain, such as the PURE THIX® compounds proposed by SUD-CHEMIE. (f) celluloses or their derivatives, modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, in which the alkyl groups are in the form of C 6 - and in particular: non-alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses; ionic agents such as the products NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS and POLYSURF 67 (C16 alkyl) sold by AQUALON 30 * nonoxynylhydroxyethylcellulose nonionic such as the AMERCELL HM-1500 product sold by the company AMERCHOL; nonionic alkylcelluloses such as the product BERMOCOLL EHM 100 sold by the company BEROL NOBEL; (g) associative guar derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guars modified with a fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified with a C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified with a C14 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified with a C20 alkyl chain) sold by RHODIA CHIMIE. Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.
    [0023] The polyether polyurethanes may be multiblocked, in particular in the form of a triblock. The hydrophobic sequences may be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These same polymers may also be graft or star. The nonionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain containing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name. By extension are also included among the nonionic polyurethane fatty chain polyethers those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic blocks by other chemical bonds. As examples of fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers that can be used in the invention, it is also possible to use also the urea-functional Rheolate 205® sold by Rheox or the Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, and as the Acrysol RM 184®. Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T210® with a C12-14 alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212® with a C18 alkyl chain from AKZO. The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane linkage, proposed at 20% solids content in water, can also be used. It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include RHEOLATEC) 255, RHEOLATEC) 278 and RHEOLATE® 244 sold by RHEOX. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and the DW 1206J proposed by the company Rohm & Haas. The polyether polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid 35 Polym. Sci 271, 380, 389 (1993). More particularly still it is preferred to use a polyether polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) alcohol stearyl or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate. Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company Rohm & Haas under the names ACULYN 46® and ACULYN 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a propylene glycol mixture ( 39%) and water (26%)]. In a first variant of the invention, the thickening polymer or polymers are chosen from homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, salified or not, homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2- propane sulphonic, salified or not and / or cellulosic polymers. In a second variant of the invention, the thickening polymer or polymers are chosen from anionic associative thickeners, preferably acrylic, salified or non-salified. The polymers marketed under the names PEMULEN TR1 or TR2 by the company LUBRIZOL, whose INCI name is Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, or ACULYN 22, or 88 by the company ROHM & HAAS of INCI name Acrylates / steareth, will be chosen in particular. -20 methacrylate copolymer, or ACULYN 28 of ROHM & HAAS INCI name Acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer. The mineral thickeners may be chosen from clays, optionally modified, silicas, optionally modified, or mixtures thereof. The optionally modified clays are, for example, smectites such as saponites, hectorites, montmorillonites, bentonites, beidellite and in particular synthetic hectorites (also called laponites), such as the products sold by Laporte under the name Laponite XLG. , Laponite RD, Laponite RDS (these products are sodium and magnesium silicates and in particular sodium, lithium and magnesium silicates); bentonites, such as the product sold under the name Bentone HC by Rheox; magnesium and aluminum silicates, in particular hydrated silicates, such as the products sold by Vanderbilt Company under the name Veegum ultra, Veegum HS and Veegum DGT, or else calcium silicates and in particular the synthetic form sold by the company under the name The optionally modified silicas are, for example, the optionally hydrophobic fumed silica surface-treated with a particle size of less than 1 μm. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references Aerosil R8126 by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-5306 by the company CABOT, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972ô, and Aerosil R974ô by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610ô and CAB-O-SIL TS-720ô by CABOT. The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.
    [0024] Preferably, the mineral thickeners are chosen from lipophilic clays, in particular modified hectorites; hydrophobic treated fumed silica; hydrophobic silica aerogels, or mixtures thereof.
    [0025] The thickeners according to the invention are generally present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and most preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0026] The composition according to the invention may be cosmetic and / or dermatological, preferably cosmetic. The composition according to the invention is generally suitable for topical application to the skin and therefore generally comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin and / or its integuments. It is preferably a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say which has a pleasant color, smell and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to divert the consumer to use this composition.
    [0027] The composition according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of lotion or gel-type dispersions, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H), microemulsions The composition according to the invention can alternatively be in the form of sticks These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste or a mousse. They may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick. Preferably, the compositions are liquid. When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It may additionally contain other fatty substances. As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; Hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn or soya bean oils. , squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names "Miglyol 810", "812" and "818" by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil - carbonates of C6-C18 acids such as carbonate of dioctyl. Esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain , branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, stearic acid, octy1-2-dodecyl, octy1-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; Isododecane, isohexadecane, - fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2- hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; Partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of oils mentioned above is understood to mean any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. The fatty alcohol ratio according to the invention a) / oil may vary from 0.05 to 0.5, preferably from 0.1 to 0.3 and even more particularly from 0.15 to 0.25. The proportion of oil of the emulsion can range from 2 to 50% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, more particularly still from 10 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the company Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.
    [0028] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, preferably O / W emulsion.
    [0029] The O / W emulsion also includes emulsified gels. Emulsified gels are understood to mean the dispersions of oils in an aqueous gel. The addition of surfactant is optional for this dosage form. The proportion of the oily phase of the emulsion can range from 2 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition may be an aqueous gel, and especially include conventional aqueous gelling agents. Advantageously, the composition is a composition comprising at least one aqueous phase. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and a water-soluble organic solvent chosen, for example, from linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and methanol. isopropanol, propanol, butanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, monomethyl ether propylene glycol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The composition generally comprises from 30 to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of organic solvent (s) may range, for example, from 0 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 15% by weight, and still more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight. and still more preferably 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one preferred embodiment, the composition may comprise at least one alkyl C 8 -C 30 (poly) glycoside. These surfactants may be more particularly represented by the following general formula: ## STR1 ## in which R 1 represents a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical comprising from about 8 to 30 carbon atoms, a radical alkylphenyl in which the linear or branched alkyl radical contains from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, R2 represents an alkylene radical containing about 2 to 4 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar unit comprising from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, t denotes a a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, preferably 0 to 3 and denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4. It should further be noted that each unit of the polysaccharide portion of the alkylpolyglycoside may be in isomeric form cc or O, in L or D form and the configuration of the saccharide residue may be of furanoside or pyranoside type. It is, of course, possible to use mixtures of alkylpolyosides, which may differ from each other by the nature of the alkyl unit carried and / or the nature of the carrier polysaccharide chain. According to one particular embodiment, the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which R 1 denotes more particularly a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and more particularly still equal to 0. G can denote glucose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose or starch preferably glucose. The degree of polymerization, ie the value of y in the formula above, may range from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 4. The average degree of polymerization is more particularly between 1 and 2.5, preferably from 1 to , 0.5 to 2.5 and more preferably 1.1 to 2. The glucosidic linkages between the sugar units are of the 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably 1-4.
    [0030] It is particularly possible to use coco (poly) glucoside (for example MONTANOV 82® and MONTANOV S), arachidyl (poly) glucoside (eg MONTANOV 202), Myristyl (poly) glucoside (for example MONTANOV 14 ®), cetylstearyl (poly) glucoside (for example MONTANOV 68 ®), C12-C20 alkyl (poly) glucosides (for example MONTANOV L ®), Isostearyl (poly) glucoside (for example Montanov WO 18 ®), octyldodecyl (poly) xyloside (eg FLUIDANOV 20X ®.) Arachidyl (poly) glucoside is preferred as the commercial product MONTANOV 202 ® from SEPPIC.
    [0031] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of alkyl (poly) glycosides ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0, 2 to 1%, more preferably 0.25 to 0.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
    [0032] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 8. Preferably, the pH of the composition is from 4 to 7. The composition according to the invention may be a composition for the care, cleaning or makeup of the skin of the body or face, in particular, a composition for the care. The skin care composition may for example be a cream, a gel or a fluid for the face. Additives: The composition according to the present invention may further contain various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as surfactants, emulsifiers; charges ; conservatives; sequestering agents; dyes; perfumes ; pH agents. Advantageously, the composition may further comprise at least one asset for the care of oily skin. This active agent is preferably chosen from among the agents It may also contain cosmetic active agents such as desquamating, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, sebum-regulating and antioxidant agents, moisturizing agents and vitamins.
    [0033] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged. .
    [0034] The active agent (s) used in the composition according to the invention may represent from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.001% to 10%, and more preferably from 0.01% to 5%, of the total weight of the composition.
    [0035] The invention further relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or make-up of the skin, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition according to the invention. More specifically, it is a method for mattifying the skin and / or reducing its gloss, comprising topically applying the composition of the invention to the skin. By "matifying" is meant to make the skin more matte, reduce its shine, and therefore its unsightly reflections. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the composition according to the invention for the care of combination and / or oily skin. The invention further relates to a method for moisturizing the skin comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition according to the invention. The invention will now be illustrated by the following nonlimiting examples. In these examples, the amounts are indicated in weight percent. The compounds are, as the case may be, listed in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook). EXAMPLES Example 1: Maturity / gloss measurement E n% MA AB Behenyl behenate 3 - Cetylstearyl alcohol - 3 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (55%) (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (30%) (and) ARACHIDYL 3 3 25 GLUCOSIDE (15%) %) (MONTANOV 202 from SEPPIC) ISOHEXADECANE 6 6 DIMETHICONE 10 Cst 6 6 SODIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE in inverse emulsion (SIMULGEL 800 from SEPPIC) 0.72 0.72 Preservatives 0.5 0.5 Water qs 100% 100% Measurement of dullness by in vitro evaluation The mattness obtained with the composition A according to the invention and with the composition B given by way of comparative example was measured using a contrast card (Prufkarte type 24/5 - 250 cm 2) marketed by the company ERICHSEN. The composition was spread at a rate of 2 mg / cm 2 by means of a mechanical film-puller to obtain a film of a thickness of 100 microns. The cards are stored for 24 hours at 37 ° C. under a controlled atmosphere between 15% and 25% humidity. One vaporization of a mixture (20% oleic acid + 80% Vichy water + 1% OLETH-10) was carried out, the amount deposited was approximately 0.3 g by spraying. A measurement was made at TO of the reflection using a gonioreflectometer (UB TO then waited for 6 minutes at room temperature, then a new measurement was made (UB T6mn) .The result obtained is the ratio R between specular reflection and diffuse reflection (brightness unit) The value of R is even lower when the matting effect is important.The table below gives the values of immediate brightness unit (UBTO) and after spraying an artificial solution of sebum / sweat (UBT6m in) Composition 3% Ingredient Gloss unit UB TO UB T6m in B Cetyl stearyl alcohol 9 45 A Behenyl Behenate (DUBB DUB BB) 7 10 These results show that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a gloss lower than that obtained for a composition containing a C 16-18 fatty alcohol The performance of the composition is maintained in the presence of sweat and / or sebum. 2: We have prepared The following 3 compositions according to the invention: E n% MA ABC Behenyl behenate 1 - Mono-, di- and glyceryl tribehenate - 1 (COMPRITOL 888 CG from GATTEFOSSE) Glyceryl trihydroxystearate (THIXCIN R of ELEMENTS) 1 ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL ( 55%) (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (30%) (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE (15%) (MONTANOV 202 from SEPPIC) 3 3 3 ISOHEXADECANE 6 6 6 DIMETHICONE 10 Cst 6 6 6 SODIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE in inverse emulsion (SIMULGEL 800 from SEPPIC) 0.72 0.72 0.72 Glycerin 5 - - Preservatives 0.5 0.5 0.5 Water qs 100% 100% 100% Measurement of mattness by in vitro evaluation The procedure was described in accordance with the procedure described in Example 1. The table below gives the values of immediate gloss unit (UBTO) 10 and after spraying an artificial solution of sebum / sweat (UBT6min) composition Unite of UB T6min shine UB TO A Behenate Behenyl 2.9 4.3 B Glyceryl tributenate 3.25 7.2 C 3.2 3.2 glyceryl trihydroxystearate 15 20 The performance of the compositions is maintained in the presence of sweat and / or sebum.
    [0036] EXAMPLE 3 A composition according to the invention was prepared: INCI name% by active ingredient ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL (55%) (and) BEHENYL ALCOHOL (30%) (and) ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE (15%) Montanov 202 from seppic 3 ISOHEXADECANE 6 DIMETHICONE (DC TORAY SH 200C fluid 1005 from Dow Corning) 6 BEHENYL BEHENATE DUB BB (100%) 1 GLYCERIN 5 SODIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE in inverse emulsion (SIMULGEL 800 from SEPPIC) 0.72 Preservatives 0.5 Water qs 100% Gloss unit TO 2.9 Gloss unit T6mn 4.3 The performance of the composition is maintained in the presence of sweat and / or sebum. This composition can be applied morning and / or evening on the face to matify the combination and oily skin and to moisturize them. Example 4 INCI Concentration BEHENYL BEHENATE - DUB BB 3 ISOHEXADECANE 6 DIMETHICONE (DC Toray SH 200C Fluid 6 1005 from Dow Corning) Water qs 100% SODIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL 0.72 TAURATE in inverse emulsion (SIMULGEL 800 from SEPPIC) PHENOXYETHANOL 0, 5 Gloss unit TO 7 Gloss unit T6mn The performance of the composition is maintained in the presence of sweat and / or sebum.
    [0037] This composition can be applied morning and / or evening on the face to matify combination and oily skin.
    权利要求:
    Claims (17)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. Composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) one or more alcohols comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, b) one or more fatty acid esters, said ester comprising at least 24 carbon atoms, C) one or more thickeners. 10
    [0002]
    2. Composition according to claim 1, the fatty alcohol (s) comprising at least 20 carbon atoms are of Ra-OH structure, in which Ra denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated radical containing from 20 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 20 to 30 carbon atoms; Ra may be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups. 15
    [0003]
    3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty alcohol (s) comprising at least 20 carbon atoms are primary fatty alcohols which have a linear and saturated chain, such as, in particular, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, lignocyclic alcohol, ceryl alcohol and montanyl alcohol, and more particularly behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol.
    [0004]
    4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of fatty alcohol (s) comprising at least 20 carbon atoms varies from 0.1 to 20 ° by weight, particularly from 0.2. at 10%, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0005]
    5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said fatty acid esters are A) those having the following formula (I): R-COO-R '(I) in which: R and R ', which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, B) di or triesters of glycerol and C12-C30 fatty acids
    [0006]
    6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said fatty acid esters are behenyl behenate, stearyl stearate, arachidate arachidate, glyceryl tristearate, glyceryl distearate. , glycerol trihydroxystearate, glyceryl letrisbehenate, glyceryl dibehenate, and more particularly behenyl behenate.
    [0007]
    7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said fatty acid esters are present in the compositions according to the invention in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight.
    [0008]
    8. Composition according to the preceding claim characterized in that the thickeners are chosen from homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, salified or not, homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propane acid. sulfonic acid, salified or not and / or cellulosic polymers, anionic associative thickeners, preferably acrylic, salified or not.
    [0009]
    9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the thickener or thickeners according to the invention are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1%. at 20% by weight, and most preferably ranging from 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
    [0010]
    10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one AlkylC-C30 (poly) glycoside.
    [0011]
    11. Composition according to Claim 10, characterized in that the alkyl (s) -C8-C30 (poly) glycoside are present in a content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. and more preferably 0.2 to 1%, more preferably 0.25 to 0.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
    [0012]
    12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one oil.
    [0013]
    13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one skincare active ingredient chosen from desquamating, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, sebo-regulating and anti-inflammatory agents. oxidants.
    [0014]
    14. Cosmetic skin care and / or makeup process, comprising the topical application to the skin of the composition according to one of Claims 1 to 13.
    [0015]
    15. The method of claim 14, characterized in that it is a method for matting the skin and / or reduce its gloss.
    [0016]
    16. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, for the care of combination and / or oily skin.
    [0017]
    17. Use of an acid ester according to one of claims 1 and 5 to 7 as agent for mattifying keratin materials such as oily and / or shiny skin.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    BR112017010689B1|2021-01-05|
    JP2018500345A|2018-01-11|
    BR112017010689A2|2018-02-14|
    ES2776392T3|2020-07-30|
    JP2020203912A|2020-12-24|
    WO2016102695A1|2016-06-30|
    EP3236918B1|2020-02-12|
    CN106999411A|2017-08-01|
    EP3236918A1|2017-11-01|
    US20170367950A1|2017-12-28|
    FR3030231B1|2018-08-24|
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    法律状态:
    2015-11-10| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2016-06-24| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20160624 |
    2016-11-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2017-11-13| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    2019-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 6 |
    2020-11-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |
    2021-11-15| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1463283|2014-12-23|
    FR1463283A|FR3030231B1|2014-12-23|2014-12-23|USE OF A FATTY ACID ESTER FOR MATIFYING THE SKIN AND COMPOSITION COMPRISING SAID ESTER|FR1463283A| FR3030231B1|2014-12-23|2014-12-23|USE OF A FATTY ACID ESTER FOR MATIFYING THE SKIN AND COMPOSITION COMPRISING SAID ESTER|
    BR112017010689-2A| BR112017010689B1|2014-12-23|2015-12-23|composition, cosmetic process and cosmetic use of the composition and acid ester|
    JP2017533777A| JP2018500345A|2014-12-23|2015-12-23|Use of fatty acid esters and compositions containing these esters to impart a matte feel to the skin|
    PCT/EP2015/081211| WO2016102695A1|2014-12-23|2015-12-23|Use of a fatty acid ester for mattifying the skin and composition comprising this ester|
    ES15813892T| ES2776392T3|2014-12-23|2015-12-23|Use of a fatty acid ester to mattify the skin and composition comprising this ester|
    EP15813892.5A| EP3236918B1|2014-12-23|2015-12-23|Use of a fatty acid ester for mattifying the skin and composition comprising this ester|
    CN201580070238.4A| CN106999411A|2014-12-23|2015-12-23|Fatty acid ester is used for skin and goes glossy purposes and include the composition of this ester|
    US15/538,453| US20170367950A1|2014-12-23|2015-12-23|Use of a fatty acid ester for mattifying the skin and composition comprising this ester|
    JP2020144431A| JP2020203912A|2014-12-23|2020-08-28|Use of fatty acid ester for mattifying skin and composition comprising the ester|
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